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buenos aires: barracas revisited, industrial

Buenos Aires, Barracas, industria

Probably its most defining characteristic, factories & warehouses can be found scattered all around Barracas. Everywhere. There’s no escape.

According to James R. Scobie‘s classic work “Buenos Aires: Plaza to Suburb, 1870-1910,” there was a concentrated effort to move industry south after 1890. Occasional fires & the reliance on soft coal from Cardiff & Glasgow for producing electricity & steam prompted city officials to move risky/dirty business as far away from populated areas as possible.

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buenos aires: barracas revisited, divisions

Buenos Aires, Barracas, map

Barracas is big. It’s bulky. And this southern barrio has a reputation for being bad. But it’s one of my favorite areas of Buenos Aires. Hopefully this series of posts will dispel some of the misrepresentations about Barracas & encourage people to explore it. I walked just about every block in Barracas back in 2007 & recently returned to see what’s changed. Quite a bit.

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writing: prep for plaza de mayo

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, Plaza de Mayo

I’ll never forget my first impression of Plaza de Mayo —the main square in Buenos Aires & arguably the most important public spot in all of Argentina. Important buildings, including the Casa Rosada (the presidential office) & the Cabildo (the old town hall), are located there… in addition, the plaza witnessed the birth of a revolutionary movement which expanded to all of Latin America. Expectations were high. But on arrival I thought to myself, “This is it??” Living in Spain & frequent travels to México had apparently spoiled me. I envisioned a large public space, a knockout cathedral & lots of colonial architecture. Instead, Plaza de Mayo delivered a few palm trees, horrendous 1970’s-era fountains, random patches of grass & the feeling that I was in a basin. Hmph.

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personal: when i lived in spain

España, Spain, Cádiz

With Spain currently deep in crisis mode & elections for President/Prime Minister coming up tomorrow, I sat back last night & thought about how things were so different when I lived in Cádiz in 1998-99. On a personal level, it was an emotional rollercoaster. I naively thought that my partner & I could salvage our relationship with a change of scenery. Silly me. My Spanish experience came to an end when we broke up, & I had to move back to Seattle. But what an amazing ten months.

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portugal: quero cantar fado

fado, singer, cantante

I’ve already shared two songs by my favorite tango singer, Tita Merello, on this blog. And while I may not listen to much tango, Tita is part of almost every playlist I make. Lately, I’ve been thinking ahead to next year’s trip to Portugal… & listening to a lot of fado. One of my favorite singers is really the queen of the genre. But first a bit about the music itself.

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buenos aires: inside the kavanagh

Don’t be jealous… although you should be.

The Kavanagh is a Holy Grail to architecture buffs worldwide, & I scored a visit inside today. The building administration was adamant about not taking photos in public areas. Did I listen? We were chastised several times, & I wouldn’t want the person who granted us access to get into trouble. She lives there after all. But how could I resist?

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sevilla: cathedral

Spain, España, Sevilla, catedral, cathedral

Think about Spain for a moment… go ahead, I’ll wait.

Most of the images that come immediately to mind are in fact typical of the south & of Sevilla, in particular. Sevilla’s spirit —partially through clever marketing— has captured everyone’s imagination. But the city truly lives up to its reputation. An ambiance exists in Sevilla, even when crowded with tourists, that is difficult to put into words. I imagine every visitor goes there to feel a bit of the city’s special vibe for themselves.

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business: why once?

Buenos Aires, Once, Balvanera, dome, cúpula

Let’s clear something up. This isn’t the English word “once” but the mini-barrio known as Once in Buenos Aires. Say OHN-say… now you’ve got it.

A 12-block walk through the heart of Once will be the next release for Endless Mile, nicely ahead of schedule. Text & layout are already finished. The only big task remaining is to create a couple of graphics. The walk should be available soon! It’s a treat to show visitors a part of Buenos Aires that is centrally located (about the same distance from both Recoleta Cemetery & Plaza de Mayo) but rarely visited. Hopefully we’ll change that. Our introduction begins with the following text:

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