Officially known as Igreja de Santa Maria Maior, the Lisbon cathedral stands out unmistakably above the city’s pastel skyline. More like a fortification than a place of worship, its bell towers seem anchored in a long-distant past. The following text is what you’d read if I had kept this listing in the latest update of my Catholic Heritage guide, but unfortunately it didn’t make the cut. You’ll understand why…
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Today kicks off the beginning of a month-long party —the Festas de Lisboa— & one of my personal highlights is seeing the winners of a sardine design contest. No, not real sardinhas but the shape of one. Get your sketchpad out…
Read More »lisboa: sardinhas as art
Over New Year’s I tweeted “If you haven’t been to Setúbal, then get here asap” & I meant it! For some reason, the city had been off my radar but what a beautiful discovery. Here’s a bit of why we fell in love with Setúbal… & not just for choco frito 😉
Read More »portugal: setúbal
While searching for information about the B2 European Portuguese exam, I found very little online about people’s personal experience either studying for or taking this test. The pandemic had spawned several YouTube channels that teach various aspects of the language —very much appreciated— but I only discovered a few people that discussed the actual examination process. So here’s my journey…
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As a brief overnight stop between Alcobaça & Porto, I wish I’d had more time to explore Ovar. Situated at the northernmost tip of the Aveiro estuary, this city without tons of tourists was a welcome change… but between its beautiful tiles, great food & proximity to the ocean, I’m sure Ovar will be on the beaten path soon.
Read More »portugal: ovar
Almost an exact repeat of guidebook research in 2018, I knew updating the next edition of Rick Steves’ Portugal would be a big job. I’d already shown my friend John around a few places in May & seen big changes. No choice but to dive in!
Read More »portugal: guidebook research 2022