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architecture

coimbra: portugal dos pequenitos

Portugal, Coimbra, Portugal dos Pequenitos, Cassiano Branco

Behind the recently restored Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha sits what most people consider to be a kids’ attraction. But this playground of miniature monuments, tiny houses & museum displays from around the world —Portugal dos Pequenitos— was designed to do a lot more than entertain children. Built under the Salazar regime from 1937 to 1961 by architect Cassiano Branco, this compact display of the best of Portugal transmits a message that few people understand today.

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buenos aires: confitería del molino

Buenos Aires, Confitería del Molino, Francisco Gianotti

In the past ten years, Buenos Aires has come a long way in terms of preserving city heritage. New organizations have formed, especially on neighborhood level, keeping watch over the city’s buildings & blowing the whistle when sneaky developers try to destroy what makes BA so unique. That said, one particular building sums up everything wrong about the city’s attitude toward conservation: the Confitería del Molino.

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buenos aires: alejandro christophersen

Alejandro Christophersen, Bolsa, Buenos Aires, staircase, escalera
● Stock market, Buenos Aires – photo courtesy BCBA

Since I’ve become such a fan of Buenos Aires architecture, I’ll begin a series of posts about our best architects in order to highlight who have made BA such a joy to walk around. There’s no better place to start than the grandfather of all BA architects, Alejandro Christophersen.

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buenos aires: churches

Buenos Aires, Argentina, churches, iglesias, dome, cúpula

Being Easter Sunday, what better time to write about churches in Buenos Aires? Easter is probably my least favorite holiday of the year as it brings back memories of being dragged unwillingly to church… be it Lutheran, Methodist or Presbyterian. It never mattered much since we didn’t attend service any other day of the year. Seriously. However, after 12 years of extended stays in Spain & Portugal —plus living in Argentina for over 10 years— I may as well be Catholic by default.

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buenos aires: estanislao pirovano, last word

First of all, one building that didn’t fit any of the other categories:

Güemes 3950 (Palermo) • I hadn’t been disappointed in my Estanislao Pirovano quest. But after seeing this former apartment building, I wonder what Pirovano was thinking when he designed this. There’s nothing wrong with it… just very blah compared to all his other buildings. Maybe he was merely fulfilling a client’s request. No Tudor, no Neocolonial, no dragons, nada. The most decorative part of the façade is the pediment with lots of frilly bits & curves to look at through the trees.

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buenos aires: estanislao pirovano, unbuilt

Buenos Aires, Estanislao Pirovano, Aquarium Monumental, 1935

[Originally written on 21 Apr 2014, this post has been backdated in order to merge with others in this series.]

In the course of researching the life & work of Estanislao Pirovano, one source mentioned the architect’s plans for an immense National Aquarium. Obtained from a December 1943 issue of the magazine “Pique“, small, fuzzy reproductions hint at what would have been a masterpiece: 120 meters long & 70 meters wide. Location: the Costanera exactly where the old swimming point was located. They mention the project received approval in 1935, but its 130 tanks were never built.

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buenos aires: estanislao pirovano, neoprehispanic

Buenos Aires, San Nicolás, Estanislao Pirovano, La Nación/Falabella, Neoprehispanic

As part of an architectural & cultural movement from 1860 to 1900, nations once controlled by Spain began examining & re-evaluating their past. Dubbed Neoprehispánica, Neocolonial forms merged with indigenous influence in an attempt to create a unique, local style… very popular in México. Some authors refer to this style as Arequipeño based on architecture originating in Arequipa, Perú. Call it what you like, it’s gorgeous.

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buenos aires: estanislao pirovano, neocolonial

Buenos Aires, Flores, Estanislao Pirovano, Neocolonial

Coexisting with Art Deco & English Revival styles in the 1920’s was an idealized notion of Spanish architecture during colonial times. Certainly influenced by the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, this style of architecture never existed in Buenos Aires prior to the 20th century. Ochre & white colors echo those of Sevilla, & delicate designs in columns & panels are inspired by a late Gothic-early Renaissance Spanish style known as plateresco. Derived from the Spanish word for silver (plata), the decoration mimics silver filigree work. Add to all of this a new interest in Spanish Mission architecture from California & you have the beginning of Latin American movement in architecture. Estanislao Pirovano joined the club.

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buenos aires: estanislao pirovano, neotudor

Buenos Aires, Retiro, Estanislao Pirovano, Biblioteca Ricardo Güiraldes

Estanislao Pirovano’s most prolific style, Neotudor or Tudor Revival found fans around the world. I even found lots of it in Bogotá. Popular roughly during the same time as Art Deco, architects replicated simple, English country homes & often added local influences to make an eclectic mix. Pirovano excelled at combining four-centered arches, wooden doors, bay windows, fanciful columns, faux coats-of-arms & mythical/real beasts… very unique in Buenos Aires & something upper-class porteños wanted.

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