Skip to content

musings & more since 2004

portugal: tile reproductions

Azulejos, tiles, vector

The estado de alarma & subsequent quarantine due to COVID-19 gave me time to return to an old hobby: making vector reproductions of Portuguese tile panels. While I’ve never been much of an artist, copying has always come easy… perhaps a result of how I visualize the world & see detail. Whatever the reason, immersing myself in azulejos for a few hours each week gave me some much-needed distraction from what was happening in the world.

Read More »portugal: tile reproductions

personal: becoming a tour guide

Robert Wright, Rick Steves, tour, Portugal, 2018
• Telling the tragic love story of Pedro & Inês, Portugal · 2018

Help me celebrate a very special anniversary: my first tour as lead guide with Rick Steves twenty years ago. I’d hoped to invite tour members to a surprise party right now, but coronavirus has us in quarantine around the world. At least we can raise a toast together online! To commemorate these past two decades, I thought I’d answer in detail one of the most-asked questions for every guide: how did you get started with Rick? Get comfy cuz this is the long version…

Read More »personal: becoming a tour guide

sevilla: semana santa, favorite moments

Andalucía, Sevilla, Semana Santa, Holy Week

With Holy Week on hold due to coronavirus, there’s no better time to relive some of my favorite moments from previous years. The Vatican may allow a grand procession after quarantine is over, & there’s even talk of celebrating Semana Santa in September. Whatever. Festivities should have begun today. It’s a moment many sevillanos look forward to all year long, including me.

Read More »sevilla: semana santa, favorite moments

lisboa: cais das colunas

Casi das Colunas, 1950s

One of Lisbon’s most iconic viewpoints, not even the 1755 earthquake could destroy this majestic point of entry into the capital of Portugal. The royal palace disappeared forever, but the public square retained its shape during reconstruction… although sporting a new name. Recently the columns returned with “Salazar” cleaned up for all to see. That polemic decision allows visitors & residents alike to engage in a dialogue with Portugal’s recent history.

Read More »lisboa: cais das colunas

road trip: stl to atl

Ambitious plan? Actually easier than it looks. With drive times between stops relatively short, we could fit in a lot in 17 days. I hadn’t been back to the South in 20 years, so I was excited to reconnect with old friends. Plus, Rafa could finally see an important part of my past. We picked up where we left off from our previous road trip, had an incredible time & managed to get home just before the world went into lockdown…

Read More »road trip: stl to atl

sevilla: monumento al sagrado corazón de jesús

España, Spain, Andalucía, Sevilla, San Juan de Aznalfarache, Sagrado Corazón, monumento

Perched on a hilltop with commanding views over the Guadalquivir Valley, the Monumento al Sagrado Corazón de Jesús reigns over Sevilla’s suburbs. Its tall tower in San Juan de Aznalfarache forms part of a larger complex & is often visible on the way to either IKEA, El Corte Inglés or Leroy Merlin… all those special trips. Obviously from the Franco era due to its scale & size, the monument followed part of a worldwide Catholic trend of devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus & was sponsored by the cardinal-archbishop of Sevilla, Pedro Segura y Sáez.

Read More »sevilla: monumento al sagrado corazón de jesús

spain: arcos de la frontera

Arcos de la Frontera, panorama, Iglesia de San Pedro

Founded by Romans as Arx-Arcis & later the capital of an independent Muslim taifa, Arcos de la Frontera entered a golden age after being taken by Christian forces in 1264. The city & surrounding area became part of a lordship then moved up to become a countdom, gradually increasing in importance. And it would continue to grow…

Read More »spain: arcos de la frontera

buenos aires: domes

Buenos Aires, domes, cúpulas

Back to Buenos Aires! Not literally… but I just realized I hadn’t reposted a popular series from the previous version of this blog. From 2007 to be exact. Back when my only internet presence was line of sight, I wrote one of the most widely read, English-language blogs about Buenos Aires. While I researched early housing projects in the city, I also began looking up & paying attention. I saw more domes than I’d ever noticed before…

Read More »buenos aires: domes