Once – Calle Paso

Buenos Aires

Navigate through the crowds to discover Art Nouveau architecture that somehow survived, vibrant Jewish history & an insane amount of commerce… a side of Buenos Aires often overlooked.


This guided walk covers 12 blocks & highlights the most important sites of a mini-neighborhood known as Once (pronounced OHN-say). Nestled within a district officially known as Balvanera, a single street serves as the axis for a stroll through the heart of central Buenos Aires.

Buildings by some of the best Art Nouveau architects in the city are a focus of the walk. Compare the styles of Virginio Colombo, Julián García Núñez & Mario Palanti while learning about conservation efforts & how Once surprisingly became a center for Art Nouveau.


Immigration is another main topic featured in this guide. Once is one of the most multicultural areas in Buenos Aires where Jews, Koreans, Bolivians & Africans work & live together. In a city that prides itself on being so European, this walk presents a very different & exciting view of the city.

Finally, commerce & transportation can’t be ignored in Once… they give the area a buzz that defines the neighborhood. Learn about the oldest train service in the nation, how it helped trade grow in Once, & how things are organized today. Two detailed maps are included: one for the main walk along Calle Paso plus a second map that zooms in on Plaza de Miserere at the end of the walk.


The plaza may be a bit of an urban mess, but nearby is the café where rock nacional began. Also bordering the plaza is the tragic site of a 2004 nightclub fire which killed 194 people & wounded over 1,400. They are never forgotten thanks to an interesting memorial. The following blog post discusses the area in more detail: Why Once?

Looking for a break from tango, Palermo restaurants or San Telmo markets? This PDF guide offers an adventure with lots of surprising stories, from the AMIA bombing to a high school founded by Basque missionaries… fundamental to develop a more complete understanding of Buenos Aires. Sample sheets below demonstrate the guide’s general layout:

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, Once-Calle Paso guide

Format: PDF, A4 landscape, 27 pages. Ideal for viewing on any tablet or for print. Released Nov 2011, updated Feb 2015. This guide may not be redistributed, resold or reprinted.
Duration: The route takes about 90 minutes to walk at a leisurely pace. You may need extra time to gaze at all the architecture & take photos.
Price: US $4.99 via PayPal. A link to download the PDF will be sent to your email address after payment is confirmed.

Click to purchase Calle Paso guide