Once – Calle Paso

Buenos Aires

Navigate through the crowds to discover Art Nouveau architecture that somehow survived, vibrant Jewish history & an insane amount of commerce… a side of Buenos Aires often overlooked.


This guided walk covers 12 blocks & highlights the most important sites of a mini-neighborhood known as Once (pronounced OHN-say). Nestled within a district officially known as Balvanera, a single street serves as the axis for a stroll through the heart of central Buenos Aires.

Buildings by some of the best Art Nouveau architects in the city are a focus of the walk. Compare the styles of Virginio Colombo, Julián García Núñez & Mario Palanti while learning about conservation efforts & how Once surprisingly became a center for Art Nouveau.


Immigration is another main topic featured in this guide. Once is one of the most multicultural areas in Buenos Aires where Jews, Koreans, Bolivians & Africans work & live together. In a city that prides itself on being so European, this walk presents a very different & exciting view of the city.

Finally, commerce & transportation can’t be ignored in Once… they give the area a buzz that defines the neighborhood. Learn about the oldest train service in the nation, how it helped trade grow in Once, & how things are organized today. Two detailed maps are included: one for the main walk along Calle Paso plus a second map that zooms in on Plaza de Miserere at the end of the walk.


The plaza may be a bit of an urban mess, but nearby is the café where rock nacional began. Also bordering the plaza is the tragic site of a 2004 nightclub fire which killed 194 people & wounded over 1,400. They are never forgotten thanks to an interesting memorial. The following blog post discusses the area in more detail: Why Once?

Looking for a break from tango, Palermo restaurants or San Telmo markets? This PDF guide offers an adventure with lots of surprising stories, from the AMIA bombing to a high school founded by Basque missionaries… fundamental to develop a more complete understanding of Buenos Aires. Sample sheets below demonstrate the guide’s general layout:

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, Once-Calle Paso guide

Format: PDF, A4 landscape, 27 pages. Ideal for viewing on any tablet or for print. Released Nov 2011, updated Feb 2015. This guide may not be redistributed, resold or reprinted.
Duration: The route takes about 90 minutes to walk at a leisurely pace. You may need extra time to gaze at all the architecture & take photos.
Price: US $4.99 via PayPal. A link to download the PDF will be sent to your email address after payment is confirmed.

Click to purchase Calle Paso guide

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, domes, cúpulas

Unsure if this guide is for you?
Not a problem. We’ve made our guide to DOMES OF BUENOS AIRES available for download free of charge! This 12-page, map-based PDF (only 2 Mb) allows you to examine the general structure, layout & writing style of all Endless Mile guides. Plus you’ll have an opportunity to discover 75 great domes in Buenos Aires as well! Some features you’ll find are: a brief historical background, a summary of architectural styles & lots of original artwork. Enjoy another way to explore Buenos Aires… on us!

Download free Domes guide