Situated far from the Metro & far from tourist crowds, the Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira has to be one of the best-kept secrets of Lisbon. Heck, it’s taken me 20 years to get around to visit it! Built in the 1670s, this hunting estate survived the 1755 earthquake & then became the main residence of the Mascarenhas family.
Read More »lisboa: palácio fronteira
Many tourists are told an old, tired tale that Spain & Portugal merely tolerate each other… as if turning their backs to one another at the border. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Read More »discovery: 1929 expo tiles
Last time I updated the entire Rick Steves’ Portugal book, I posted daily comments on Facebook —each one beginning with “Wow, do I love Portugal” & describing fun moments + the ups & downs of being a guidebook researcher. Four years on, I no longer have a Facebook account, but I took a few moments before going to bed each night during this trip to jot down some notes about the day. Here we go again!
Read More »portugal: guidebook research 2018
Twenty years ago today, Lisboa opened a specialized World’s Fair that completely altered the city’s landscape. Local government reclaimed an abandoned industrial zone to make way for pavilions, new housing, a new Metro line, a multi-modal train station & a second bridge across the Tejo River. Lisbon would never be the same.
Read More »lisboa: expo ’98
I practically grew up in our local branch of the public library in Memphis. I think my mom figured out it doubled as free child care, & I could spend hours going through the stacks without ever noticing time pass. So when I heard the Lisbon city government spent 2.5 million € to fix up this public library, I couldn’t wait to check it out.
Read More »lisboa: palácio galveias
Writing every Endless Mile guide is a huge commitment, so I thought I’d share what happens each step of the way. After guiding over 3,000 people in several countries, I’ve developed a distinct, personal style as well as an ability to explain complex issues in a way that’s easy to understand. At least that’s what clients say!
Read More »writing: mosteiro dos jerónimos
When Pope Alexander III officially recognized Afonso Henriques as king in 1179, Portugal joined other prestigious royal houses in Europe. Dynasties would come & go —with several tragedies in between— but royals ruled until the establishment of Portugal’s first republic in 1910. That span of 731 years gave Portugal much of its modern-day national heritage; however, unlike other European countries, royal palaces are not part of the main tourist circuit. Why not? Let’s examine some previous royal residences for an answer…
Read More »lisboa: palácio da ajuda
Got your pass ready?
Let’s continue our exploration of the Metro in the heart of the city. This was the first completely new line added to the existing Metro system, completed in 1998 to whisk visitors to & from the World Expo. A compass pointing east symbolizes the red line, at one time alternatively named the Linha do Oriente. The original section of the line —Alameda to Oriente— has been extended in both directions, & is an easy way to get from the airport to the city center. Linha vermelho station names are in bold below, followed by the tile artist & year of installation. Red asterisks (✱) mark my three recommendations for this line. And remember that a complete list of Metro stations, respective artists & exact locations forms part of the Endless Mile guide Lisbon: Azulejos. Vamos embora!
Read More »lisboa: linha vermelho tiles
Got your pass ready?
Let’s continue our exploration of the Metro in the city center. Maybe check out the end of the aqueduct nearby or first have lunch at the fabulous, non-touristy Cervejaria Real Fábrica? Your choice. A sunflower symbolizes the yellow line, at one time alternatively named the Linha Girassol. Not many tourist sites are near this route —with the exception of the worthwhile Museu da Cidade in Campo Grande— so cars are more filled with locals & university students. Linha amarela station names are in bold below, followed by the tile artist & year of installation. Red asterisks (✱) mark my three recommendations for this line. If a station contains more than one artist, all are shown. And remember that a complete list of Metro stations, respective artists & exact locations forms part of the Endless Mile guide Lisbon: Azulejos. Vamos embora!
Read More »lisboa: linha amarela tiles
Got your pass ready?
Let’s continue our exploration of the Metro back at the waterfront. A seagull symbolizes the blue line, at one time alternatively named the Linha Gaivota. It is the longest of all four lines with 13.7 km of track & 18 stations. That’s a lot to cover! In my opinion, some of the best Metro tile work can be found here. Linha azul station names are in bold below, followed by the tile artist & year of installation. Red asterisks (✱) mark my three recommendations for this line. If a station contains more than one artist, all are shown. And remember that a complete list of Metro stations, respective artists & exact locations forms part of the Endless Mile guide Lisbon: Azulejos. Vamos embora!
Read More »lisboa: linha azul tiles