
Navigate through the crowds of Once to discover Art Nouveau architecture that somehow survived, vibrant Jewish history & an insane amount of commerce. Explore a side of Buenos Aires often overlooked.
The newest walk is complete! Like all others, it has a clean & crisp look, designed to be printed either at home or while in Buenos Aires (color printing is best, but black & white is fine as well). The walk covers 12 blocks & highlights the most important sites of a mini-neighborhood known as Once \OHN-say\. Nestled within a district officially known as Balvanera, a single street serves as the axis for an easy stroll through the heart of central Buenos Aires.
Buildings by some of the best Art Nouveau architects in the city are presented as a focus of the walk. Compare the styles of Virginio Colombo, Julián García Núñez & Mario Palanti while learning about conservation efforts & how Once became a center for Art Nouveau:


Immigration is another main topic presented in the PDF. Once is the most multicultural area in Buenos Aires where Jews, Koreans, Bolivians & now Africans work & live together. In a city that prides itself on being so European, this walk presents a very different & exciting view of the city.
Finally, commerce & transportation can’t be ignored in Once… they give the area a buzz that must be seen to be believed. Learn about the oldest train service in the nation, how it helped trade grow in Once, & how things are organized today. Two detailed maps are included in the PDF: one for the main walk along Calle Paso plus a second map that zooms in on Plaza de Miserere at the end of the walk (pictured below):


The plaza may be a bit of an urban mess but nearby is the café where rock nacional began. Also bordering the plaza is the tragic site of a 2004 nightclub fire which killed 194 people & wounded over 1,400. They are never forgotten thanks to a home-made memorial… which may soon disappear if city officials get their way. Check it out while you still can!
Need more reasons to visit the area? See the following blog post: Why Once? or check out the album on Facebook with photos of all the sites included in this walk.
Price: US $9.95 via PayPal. A link to download the PDF will appear after payment is confirmed. Be sure to hit the “Complete Transaction” button after payment to see the download link. Use Adobe Acrobat Reader to open & print the file.
Duration: The route takes about 90 minutes to walk at a leisurely pace. You may need extra time to gaze at all the architecture & take photos.
Format: A4 landscape, 24 pages.
Suggestions:
- Descriptions for each listing are detailed. Given the amount of text, read through the entire walk before setting out.
- The best time to visit depends on you. To experience the area’s crazy & chaotic side, go weekdays during regular business hours (10:00—18:00). To enjoy the architecture without bumping into so many people, go on the weekend. Better still, visit the area twice—even if briefly—to see how dramatically the local landscape changes from weekday to weekend.
- Have fun & enjoy the walk!
** All parts of the map including the design, walking route & text are copyrighted. It is NOT for redistribution, resale or reprinting.
Release date: 09 Nov 2011





